22
Apr
At idle the needle can bounce around quite a bit. Here is my problem i had been noticing some battery issues with my battery gauge dropping while having a lot of electronics on so i took it to have the battery and alternator tested and they said the alternator was putting out higher volts which is a sign of it going bad and was killing the battery so i went out and bought a replacement bosch alternator AL6426N and a optima yellow top D34 battery.
Thats the normal process of how an alternator works.
Battery gauge goes up and down. Before condemning the alternator though one other thing that can cause the battery gauge to go up and down is if the wires arent connected well or are corroded. It is important to keep your wires clean and connected tightly to the battery. Clean off any corrosion and tighten down any loose wires before replacing the alternator unless you know for sure it is bad.
The battery is one of the components to which your battery warning light is wired. Why does the Volt gauge go up and down. The voltage always fluctuates goes up and down depending on how much current is being used by the accessories and the engine rpm the charge state of the battery the ambient temperate all affect the voltage.
If the voltage gauge is fluctuating but thats the only symptom besides checking the battery connections I wouldnt do anything. The voltage always fluctuates goes up and down depending on how much current is being used by the accessories and the engine rpm the charge state of the battery the ambient temperate all affect the voltage. First step was to check the connections disconnected then reconnected both positive and ground leads.
Truck started right up. Since then it starts up fine but the voltage gauge fluctuates a bit it increases then decreases just a little from the baseline. Could it be the alternator starter or even the new battery.
Answer 1 of 6. If it has been that way from the start it could be just in how the battery meter built into the software is displaying the readout. If it has just started then it could be the battery itself.
As batteries age they will become erratic in their power delivery like the device will. Evey once in awhile it would jump up and the slowly come down to just below 13. Now if it is reading true voltage at the battery–this should not happen–should be a constant reading unless there is a lot of accessories on that require a lot of voltage draw.
This is more common in the northern states. 2 The plates short out. When your gauge read 12volts and a new battery it went back to 15 volts the old battery was overloading the alternator with an internal short.
At one time I had a battery short bring it down to 9 volts and the computer went nuts. I have a 2010 traverse and i noticed my gage jumps from time to time and sometimes the battery light comes on when its too low but quickly goes off as the gage rises back up. I jist recently had to replace my flywheel.
The teeth on the flywheel was broke in 2 places. I thought it was the starter at first but nope not with my luck. Here is my problem i had been noticing some battery issues with my battery gauge dropping while having a lot of electronics on so i took it to have the battery and alternator tested and they said the alternator was putting out higher volts which is a sign of it going bad and was killing the battery so i went out and bought a replacement bosch alternator AL6426N and a optima yellow top D34 battery.
Try unhooking the cables and see if the problem stops. If the cycling is a internal overload in the charger that is tripping the culprit could be the charger itself a shorted cell or plate in the battery or a short in the charging system. Your rig has had some generator issues so there might be more to this than it.
Answer 1 of 7. Thats the normal process of how an alternator works. It outputs a higher voltage than the battery so that it charges the battery.
A normal battery reads at about 1214V without a load on it with 12V being the standardized figure. Add a load and the voltage starts to reduce down. The amp gauge shows that.
When the turn signals flash on less amperage is going to the battery. Charging it The amp gauge will show that and indicate less charging amps. As soon as they blink off the amperage going to the battery jumps back up and the amp gauge will show that increase too.
If you have a volt meter then something very odd is. Use a 516 bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 10 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 516 bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground make sure that it the metal around the. OK so Saturday the check gauge light came on and the battery volts started to rise form there normal 14 volts all the way up to 18 volts and stayed pegged there for about 5min then the dropped back down to 14 volts.
I drove for another 2 hours it didnt happen again. The volatage guage definatly fluctuates up and down. Its the strangest thing ive had happen to me.
Green zone indicates that your battery is sufficiently charged and is good to go. The leftmost red zone indicates that your battery needs to be charged. If your batteries are fully charged and yet your meter shows that they are uncharged there is a possibility that youve wired your batteries wrongly.
The rough running is the cause of the voltage gauge movement. As the engine speed increases and decreases the voltage output of the alternator goes up and down. Cheap airfuel gauges simply tap off the stock oxygen sensor.
That sensor can only tell you lean or rich and the car should idle roughly at 1471 and go rich under acceleration. Cruise down the highway at steady 50 mph and see what the gauge does. At idle the needle can bounce around quite a bit.
It is because the gas is sloshing around in your tank and in older cars they had a little float that went up and down with the gas therefore when ye gas sloshes around the float goes up and down a bit. And that is the reason your gauge goes up and down. She turns the key and starts the car.
The RPM needle suddenly goes very fast to max in the red zone and then it goes fast down to zero. Then again to 3000 then back to 600 then again to the red zone 7000. It kept going up and down fast.
Pull the headlight out and hook it to a battery charger. Clamp the negative leed and touch the positive leed and if its good it will light up. If it lights up it will do so on low beam.
Checked at the batteries. Alternator has 295K miles as the rest of the truck. I doubt its the alternator.
When it does it the voltage gauge on the dash goes all the way down. Then shutting the truck off and turning the key on not starting the engine the gauge reads a normal reading.