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Copper tube into which the bare cable just fits Bare both ends push them in until they meet and crush to crimp. Mount the block in a secure convenient location in the engine bay.
Lower on the starboard side of the splashwell.
Best way to splice battery cable. Simple way to make a permanent splice without removing cable. Copper terminalSolderDielectric greaseplastic zip tiesblack electrical tape. I show how to add wire to your trolling motor or electric anchorLink splice.
Splicing Battery Cables - YouTube. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy Safety How YouTube works Test new features Press Copyright Contact us Creators. What is the best way to splice battery cables together.
Ill be splicing the cable from the charger to a cable the same size and then connect to the battery. It will be the same for both pos and neg cables. Can I just keep the same lug on the current cable add lugs to the new cable and fasten them with a bolt and nut and insulate or is that not recommended for safety and voltage drop.
My thought is to get a short peice of copper tubing with an ID. Similar to the OD. Of the cables pushing the cables in until they touch crimp the tube down real good on both ends and solder the hell out of it then cover it with shrink tubing.
Get a small heavy-duty junction block or distro distribution block small electrical connector box containing terminal posts. Mount the block in a secure convenient location in the engine bay. Re-route your stock wires to the blocks terminals then add two new lines from those terminals to the battery posts.
Just a thought but way way back in my street racing days we moved the battery to the trunk in a marine battery box and used welding cable for the run to the engine compartment. Welding cable is generally made with more and finer strands and thus is more flexible it comes in a number of sizes and they make insulated bolt together splices for it. Something to splice 1 thumb and 1 finger per hand Hemostats or needle nose pliers and maybe some gloves see below Wire stripping utensil Solder Soldering Iron Insulating material heat shrink tubing recommended let me go off on a green note for a moment my wire was scavenged from an old computer power supply if you see anyone throwing away an old pc snag it its LOADED with wire thats.
Good long lasting splices can be done pretty easily it just requires the right compression splice and tool. This is something you may want to have an electrical shop do for you. The proper crimp tool needed for the job can be fairly expensive to purchase.
It is necessary to begin with a good cable end. For this reason it is common practice to cut off a portion of cable after pulling to assure an undamaged end. A key to good cable preparation is the use of sharp high quality tools.
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Only 8 left in stock - order soon. Morris Products Black Insulated In-Line Splice Connector 250-6 Wire Range 14 Allen Hex 426L x 126W x 228H Pre-Filled Easy Entry Rubber Vinyl Coating 2 Set Screws. 46 out of 5 stars.
Best thing would be to get two lugs crimp them on each loose end then bolt the lugs together tape and double heat-shrink the whole mess. If it is only a short distance from where an original battery was to the new battery terminals then you could use it as a convenient point to add a fuse block and cut out. Mount a board on near the cable entry and mount on it an ABS box with bolt post terminals to fit a fuse or two.
The the new cables can go from the fuse to the pack. I need to change my BST cable in my 2001 330ci. I have a new cable that runs the length of the car.
I was wondering if there would be an easier way to change this other then having to run it from the battery to the front end. I read online about splicing the cable but I am not sure on how to go about this. Any help would deeply be appreciated.
Splicing battery cable I would use an inline butt connector using the noalox liberally on the ends of the wires. Before crimping slip a piece of shrink sleeve that fits tightly over the splice. Heat with a heat gun or a 1200 w hair dryer to shrink down tight to the insulation ensuring a tight fit.
Lower on the starboard side of the splashwell. This make the rigging somewhat neater as cables will not be running up to the gunwhale and is still out of the way for the most part except I have a kicker mounted there I would hate to be bumping into the post with my legs when operating it. On the centerline mounted to the splashwell.
I have a bit of corrosion of the engine side of my negative battery cable that was giving me a voltage drop to the starter. I cut back the end to where there was no corrosion and was gonna splice a new piece about 4 inches long onto it with a butt connector and. Copper tube into which the bare cable just fits Bare both ends push them in until they meet and crush to crimp.
Wrap the lot well in insulating tape. Might not be a best solution but one I have used to get round a similar issue of stupidly short cables fitted to a device needing longer heavy section cable to install the thing properly.