This helps to hide away some wires and protect the engine bay. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
Obviously positive goes to switched positive.
What gauge wire for battery relocation. Ditch the 8 gauge and the distroblock. A minimum 4 gauge to the stareri run 2 gauge wire from the battery to the starterthen either an 8 or 4 gauge from the battery to the under hood fuse box2 gauge ground from battery to any metal and i all so run 2. Your battery needs to be grounded properly to all the places it was originally grounded.
Best way to do that is run a few worth of ground cable of the same gauge as your positive back to where the battery was. There you will find it will be grounded to the block the body and into the small ground wires within the wiring harness. - Use 2ga wire to connect the negative side of the battery to the rear quad 2ft or so.
- Also use 2ga wire to connect the alternator to the cut off switch10 ft or so. - Dont forget to use an inline fuse there. - Use 2ga 2ftwire to ground the engine to the front sway bar - Use 10ga2ft wire to connect the the front sway bar to the firewall.
They sell kits with 1 and 2 gage wire. I usually run 10 gage wire for my cars. It is the next size bigger than 1.
All 3 sizes will work for you. For very long cables for example 15-foot long battery cables to relocate your battery go one size larger. 10 Gauge Buy 10 Gauge wire.
10 gauge works for accessory leads low power alternators and starter trigger wires 8 Gauge Buy 8 Gauge wire. 8 gauge works for accessory leads and low power alternators. 6 Gauge Buy 6 Gauge wire.
The battery cable should go from the battery to the starter motor using the same copper 0 gauge wiring and from the starter to the power distribution stud and alternator charge terminal. You dont need 0 gauge for this. 4 6 or 8 gauge will do depending on the electrical demands in the car.
Thanks for all the input fellow dsmers decided to use 40 awg but instead of relocating battery to the trunk Ill just drop the battery lower inside the engine bay to save a little weight. The current will either be limited by the 4 gauge wire OR burn the 4 gauge wire. Considering that fact that the ground is probably going straight to the chassis lame method IMO the positive should be the thicker wire.
It will have higher resistance because of. For the positive cable I attached the OEM positive wire harness to a distribution block and connecte the positive relocation wire to the block. What I did afterwards was fabricate a little aluminum plate that bolts to the oem battery and airbox locations.
This helps to hide away some wires and protect the engine bay. Im in process of relocating my battery right now. Its damn expensive to do it right.
Red top optima - 100 bucks Moroso battery box - 100 bucks 10 wire 40 feet 4 guage 15 feet - 200 bucks Disconnect switch - 100 bucks various items -100 bucks. So i have way to much money invested. Entire car has too much invested so whats a bit more right.
Remote battery Relocation - DONEdrool. Thanks for the advice fellas. I ended up going with some 1ga.
Wire and ran it to the rear of the pickup. Then I used the former battery mounting apparatus from my 49 Chevy pickup as the tray. Painted it tapped in some 516 bolts and now have one more project DONE.
You can go with smaller gauge wire I have a friend who did this project using 4 gauge but the thicker the better and I didnt want to have any issues. Its important to get OFC Oxygen Free Copper wire and not the other cheaper stuff. He only did that so there are no hot unfused wires from front to back since the starter cable is only hot while cranking.
I have mine setup with two cables - a 0 gauge welding cable from the switched side of the cutoff switch to the starter solenoid and a 4 gauge cable from the hot side of the cutoff switch to the alternator through a 125 amp fuse. The technical reason for this is that as the charging current drops the voltage drop in the wire also drops so the battery will float to the full charge voltage even if there is a 01-volt extra drop in the wire at the full-charge current rating I would bond the two negative terminals of the batteries together with a wire of 10-AWG. 4 gauge is bare minimum and ALLWAYS use the same size wire for both and - to the battery.
Just use 2 or 0 gauge for the trans to chassis ground. Also dont forget the valve cover ground you only need like a max of 4 gauge for that. Then in the trunk get a good ground with the same gauge wiring as the.
I ran 0 gauge everywhere but i also have a decent system and a. Compare with similar items. This item Battery Relocation Kit 10 Gauge Heavy Duty Top Post 350 AMPS USA Made SAE 16 FT POS 4 FT NEG.
Fastronix 38 Stainless Steel Single Stud Power and Ground Junction Block Red and Black. Fastronix Red and Black Premium Battery Charging Posts with Heavy Duty Mounting Plate. To relocate I was going to.
Simply run one 10 gauge wire fused to 300 amps from the battery in the back to a distribution block up front. That block will feed both the original OEM 2 AWG positive wire and the dedicated alternator 10 AWG wire I had previously installed. 22 Battery Sensor Harness Extension for the 9th Gen Civic Si.
This is the same wiring harness thats included in our Curl Control Cold Air Intake kits for the 2012-2015 9th Gen Honda Civic Si. The extension is approximately 22 long and fits between the battery terminal and the battery sensor wiring harness. Electrical - Which battery cable or welding cables to use relocating battery to trunk n drag car - Hi im redoing somebodys electrical nightmare on battery cables i was wanting to no which to use 1-gauge or 10 gauge battery cable or welding cable.
Its going be in drag car with 2 batteries n trunk also is it best. Obviously positive goes to switched positive. Both wires lead to the back of the fuel gauge.
Vdo Fuel Gauge Wiring - Battery Relocation Wiring Diagram Ori Fun Cosmetics -. The vdo oxygen sensor has grey or. It will fry the tiny wires in it.
Blue signal wire on a four terminals connector. Proper wiring of fuel gauge. Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring. There is a solution but it will require about 40 of 18 gauge green wire. Wire the battery to the two 12 posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. I ust put a Taylor battery relocation box in my 68 that kit comes with 0 gauge welder wire. I ran the battery power to a firewall bulk head and from there to the starter.
Run battery negative to rear frame. From the rear frame you can run another cable to the front subframe or if you have subframe connectors then skip that connecting cable.